My trip to the Antipodes

Hi, "Howarrya", the usual Kiwi greeting.

Around the pretty "french" town of Akaroa, there is the remains of a large but long extinct volcano, the centre of which has been flooded by the sea and the surounding rim now well vegetated with forest and pasture and with spectacular views in all directions. The whole thing is known as The Banks Peninsula.

The Banks Peninsula track turned out to be a wonderful icing to my New Zealand cake. Carolyn had suggested the curcuit and I'm so pleased that I did it. There are two options for walking the 35kms of coastal track, a four day version starting at one lodge and overnighting at three others, or the two day version where you walk on past the second and fourth. I had little option but to do the two day. We were twelve doing the four day and five the two day. All loaded into a bus at 6pm to travel the 10 minutes up the mountain to a lodge with garden filled by evening sun and overlooking Akaroa inlet. There were no flies or mossies. Heaven! I had brought along a nice Pinot Noir, poured myself a large glass and settled back into the swing hammock and soaked up the view and the sunshine. Apologies to you all back home in Narnia UK. I smile to myself constantly..

Next morning woke to very painful left foot still very blistered, and bruised right heel and seriously wondered whether I could do the 12/13 miles first day. Breakfasted on the usual fruit and meusli, took a couple of Ibuprofen and a couple more paras, fastened my boots and went for it. It all worked out not too badly. The morning walk took us over and around a couple of promentaries and down to Flea Bay. Didn't hang about, which was apity because I could have restocked the wine at not unreasonable price. Afternoon was slightly overcast but dry with reasonable views and easy walking to Stony Bay. Now this was the magic of the walk. Wooden shacks, outdoor heated "Heath Robinson" baths, a shower built alongside the trunk of a large tree and supplied by a circular header tank perched on top of the old tree stump. A pool table made from an old cart with paint tins to catch the balls. A huge swing suspended from a large piece of old tree. Wonderful water closets, fruit trees flowers and  campfire. And NO FLIES! Must go back to do it again. Met lots of interesting people, two vets from Christchurch with their wives one of whom helps people write and publish their biographies.. fascinating stories. Then there was Trevor and Sue from Aukland but who had worked in Uk for 3 years. Was a project engineer for Karsten Marine? of Ipswich but worked in S Wales and elsewhere. Now runs a very succesful engineering and construction company. Two giggly girls from Holland with "Mum" They were already in one of the outdoor baths together as I arrived in camp. Can't imagine what they were up to but it was obviously hilairiously funny.. for all those within earshot as well! Fact.. Mum worked as a nurse in Dutch National Health and being over 55 qualified for a total of 10 weeks holiday! That did include national holidays but even so! Then there was CHEN pronounced as if you weere about to spit .... qsqwwrren, a red headed little Isreali girl who was full of bounce and "Cool" and I'm sure that she was constantly high and on a different planet.

Next day feet feeling much better. Completed the 9/10 miles back to Akaroa by soon after 3pm. Rested with a pot of tea on the waterfront at Akaroa before the relatively short drive to Rakaia and meet up again with Carolyn and Peter and a long soak in the bath.

Off loading the camping stuff for Zak to use. Maybe one day I can get back here and borrow it again but in the meantime I'm sure Zak will put it to good use. It has done me very well but not sure when I am likely to pitch a tent again... though I have enjoyed it!

Am having difficulties downloading pictures so may have to wait until I get to Perth before I can try again. Pity 'cos theres lots to put on.

I must return the car late afternoon so shall leave here after early lunch, drop off the car and find a bed in Christchurch for the night. I report to the airport after lunch tomorrow, Saturday, and fly off to Oz and Part 2 of my Antipodean Journey.

Rakaia, Stardate, Friday 20th February 11:00 am. Weather... bucketing down.. I'm getting the blame.. hee hee.   bfn  Grandad

More news when I get to OZ

OK! Left Queenstown about 3 pm to drive as far up the west coast as we could before dark. Managed to get to Fox Glacier before 9. Blooming long way but still a long way to go to get up top Able Tasman. On the way picked up charming young lady, Meg (Megan) who was hoping to get a couple of hours further up the coast. We dropped her in Fox Glacier village and set off to get some sunset photos of Mount Cook. Later met her again in the pub and she bought me a pint. She had just finished "Guiding"on the Routeburn Track and about to join up with her brother who is a White Water and Kayak guide. Quite an outdoor family. Home is Tasmania and she told of the similarities of the two places. Said that I MUST fit in Tasmania sometime...  The next morning set off early to see Fox Glacier itself. Met a friend, Paul,  from the Doubtful Sound trip just coming down! When we left there was Meg thumbing her way up to meet her brov. Back on board.

Made it to Able Tasman about 8 pm. A 10 hour drive but with a"stop for lunch of pancakes at "Pancake Rocks. Thanks to most motels already being full we searched around the backstreets and found a real gem. Again, a full suite of 2 bedrooms, large bathroom and lounge. All for 120 dollars and much better value than the motels. Our plans for the following day were to go to arrange a water taxi for 12:30, book campsites for the two nights and try to book kayaks for the final leg... oh and buy a second tent for Anke. Gayle and Robin, our kind hosts thought that our plans were optimistic and that Gayle would organise everything for us instead. Bear in mind, 8:30 pm and within 15 minutes she had booked kayaks for 8 am, campsite passes, tent and return water taxi. It is typical of both the Kiwi attitude and their keeness to help combined with what must be LUCK.

So 8 am reported to the kayak office 2 mins away. They were ready for us and we joined up with 6 others, 4 Dutch and 2 Israelis and or guide Luke. Great 3 days. Kayaked for about 4 hours up to our first camp. Walked about 7 hours the next and a final couple of hours on the final day took us to Taraniki where our water taxi ferried us back to the start.

Great scenery and good campsites but rabid sandflies and at the last camp mossies! Constantly pouring on the repellant but they ware always looking for gaps!

Enjoyed a good lunch and said farewell to Anke. She had been a very good companion for an old fart who kept forgetting where the "safe place"was that he'd put things in! We received the odd look now and again but enjoyed being ""Granded and ""Adopted Daughter. Anke is hoping to fill in time waiting for her two friends to join her by fruit picking.  She left Germany as soon as she had finished her exams. She doesn't know her results yet but I think that she is quite confident. I wish her every success.

Should be some good photos so here goes..

I shall have to fill in Doubtful Sound photos another session. They are on another card.

Hope that things are getting better in UK. Last e mail from Sarah told of Grantham being at a standstill thanks to yet more snow. brrrrrr..

Am now at Blenheim, about 4 hours to Christchurch and another couple of hours to Akaroa before 5 pm tomorrow. I may get time for a whale watch session. Weather forecast looks good.

bfn    Grandad.

Hi again.

Waiting for Anke to get loaded up so logged back on and found out how to read comments from Amanda, stef n David!  Thanks all. Great encouragement. David, i wasn't aware that my salute to the camera indicated VW, I thought that it was Walls Ice-Cream.... age difference you see.

In such a hurry after my trip to Stewart Island that I forgot to mention Bluff Lodge. Bloody brilliant "Backpackers" that catered so well for a tired old man. First call, on the wat to Stewart Island, I was given the Kings Room. Wow!  When I returned two days later I was given "The House"... umpteen bedrooms, large lounge, big TV, Music tec tec. All to myself. Thanks Karen and Lex. If others go there they may not get the same accommodation but they will be guranteed a great welcome. Well done to both.

Well, the young lady has packed and now waiting to get on the road.

Be in touch again sometime.  bfn   Adopted Grandad, "Bert'

Time is starting to flash by all too quickly. Just enjoyed a fab two days onboard MV TUKOKO courtesy of Richard and Mandy  , and their helper, Sarah

10 guests, and what a lovely mixture.. Claudia from Switzerland, Paul from halifax, Nove Scotia, Clare and Ivan from Hampshire. The lovely family of Les, Sylvia ang golf mad son Mark.  And Vanessa and Greg from California who let us into the secret tthat they are expecting to be parents in 6 months time.

All were very good company and we had a lovely 24 hours in magnificemnt scenery, fishing for our supper, kyaking for those wishing to and an early morning swim in a very very cold fiord..

Now back in Queenstown picking up my Anke as we dash off up the west coast to Nelson for friday evening. We hope to do a three day tramp/kyaking trip along the Able Tasman coast

You will have to wait a little for the latest pictures.

bfn  Lots of Love to all... Grandad

Time is starting to flash by all too quickly. Just enjoyed a fab two days onboard MV TUKOKO courtesy of Richard and Mandy  , and their helper, Sarah

10 guests, and what a lovely mixture.. Claudia from Switzerland, Paul from halifax, Nove Scotia, Claire and Ivan from Hampshire. The lovely family of Les, Sylvia ang golf mad son Mark.  And Vanessa and Greg from California who let us into the secret tthat they are expecting to be parents in 6 months time.

All were very good company and we had a lovely 24 hours in magnificemnt scenery, fishing for our supper, kyaking for those wishing to and an early morning swim in a very very cold fiord..

Now back in Queenstown picking up my Anke as we dash off up the west coast to Nelson for friday evening. We hope to do a three day tramp/kyaking trip along the Able Tasman coast

You will have to wait a little for the latest pictures.

bfn  Lots of Love to all... Grandad

Hi everyone!

Stewart Island needs to be revisited to do the job properly. I met a yound lad from Leipzig who had just completed a 10 day lone hike around the island carrying all his own food, carefully planned, for the trip. The wilderness and scenery were, in his opinion, wild and very special. Another young and very fit young lady had done a six day tramp in similar vein. Donald eat your heart out.

The first day there I was able to limp around a few miles of the island and visited so many little bays, usually empty of people. Birdsong was pretty constant and I wished that I had taken Mavis's advice and brought binoculars.

Second day took the short ride to Ulva Island a bird paradise. Spotted a flock of Kiwi flying over but otherwise no show. Many other different birds filled the bill and were so unfazed by people.

Very stormy return to Bluff across an hour of the roaring forties. Several lost their lunch but I enjoyed it. You would pay a lot of money at Alton Towers for that trip

Today back into Fiordland. Tomorrow two days in Doubltfull Sound. Need to take your own booze so have just stocked up at the supermarket. Should be a great trip. Weather forecast looks to be good.

Speak again later.   bfn   Grandad

Hi Folks

Have just uploaded afew more pictures. Had to stop as it is already very late but also, my camera battery is now flat. So you'll have to wait again for next loading.

Hairy trip back off Stewart Island today. Really Roaring Forties.

Up to Te Anue tomorrow first thing. Picking up Hans, to give him a lift.

Doubtful Sound Wednesday/Thursday

Will be in touch..    Grandad

Hi All

Stewart Island, one hours fastcat ferry from Bluff and on the dege of the roaring forties.

Sun yesterday but wind and rain with thunder rumbling around today. Lovely bays within short walks of the hotel and this morning took the 5 minute ferry to Ulva Island, a nature reserve recognised for its birdlife. Little or no fear of man, the birds flit around the semi-tropical rain forest and check you out. I was hoping to get a view of Kiwi, usually nocturnal, but on Ulva they often come out to feed during the daytime. No show today but a great 4 hour wander. Now back at the hotel with a pint in my hand.

Good time had yesterday evening watching the Rugby Sevens.  Great result. Havn't dared mention it in the bar today.

This really is on the edge of civilisation and I have failed to find any internet access that will allow loading up of photos. Apparently, someone in the town once had a virus which was blamed on the camera and so that is how total fear of cameras has overcome the whole community. Will have to wait...

Back to the mainland tomorrow.   bfn